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A A A A Author Topic: CX650 - Loose/Missing Bolts in Main Bearing Holder  (Read 174 times)

Barocca

CX650 - Loose/Missing Bolts in Main Bearing Holder
« Started on: 21-Feb-20, 16:10 »
I'm once again hoping to mine the rich vein of knowledge on this site.  I'm fitting a new camchain to my 1983 CX650E.  I noticed that there are two bolt positions (indicated with red arrows).  The left hand bolt is missing, and the RH one is loose.  The close-up pic shows this better (with missing bolt location marked in blue. 
I haven't been able to discover what the purpose is of these bolts.  How can the bike be running so well for four years with this fault?  There is no sign of any mangled steel in the bottom of the cases. 
Can anyone help with diagnosis and, perhaps, remedy?

J.C.

The left has been absent on the 650 motors I have opened.

The right looks like the bolt which retains the right piston oil squirter.

https://motofaction.org/motorcycles/honda-cx-gl/piston-and-bore-lubrication-honda-cx650-gl650/

Perhaps it was not loose enough to cause significant oil pressure loss.

Barocca

Many thanks J.C.  My parts fiche didn't show the oil squirter clearly.  I'm relieved.   happy0159

J.C.

There is an O-ring around it that may be worth changing out... there may be a way to replace it without taking the crank plate out if you're a surgeon but I have always removed the crank plate to do so.

May be overkill  :dontknow: but I'd do it!

Barocca

Oh Dear.  That sounds like a major job with specialist tools.  Can it be done by the average fairly-well-equipped guy (me) without special pullers, presses etc?  Or removing cylinder heads?

CX PHREAK

You wouldn't need to remove the crank retainer but you would need to move it back by about an inch to change the O ring.

 You cannot knock it back from the front with rods fitted so it would need to be drawn back using a puller plate which is fairly easily made from a lump of 1/8 plate and a couple of bits of angle.


Barocca

I'll bite the bullet and replace the o-ring.  It'll allow me to loctite the bolt (is this recommended?).  May I ask what wizardry was used to mark the holes for the various bolts that go through the puller plate?

CX PHREAK

Cut down high tensile bolts. Chuck in drill. Run against running bench grinder to get a concentric point.

 Thread into holes, align plate, hit with hammer.

Do mounts to crankcase first and bolt the plate on.

Repeat the exercise for the puller holes.

Mounts to crankcase will require stand offs.

Barocca

Thanks Mark.  Wizardry plus "The Prestige"!

Barocca

I have sourced 5mm plate.  Do you think it is worth trying this without welding "ribs" to the back?  I'd have to cut ribs from the left-over 5mm plate.

CX PHREAK

Should be OK.

I used mine a couple of times before adding the reinforcements.

 It'll bow a bit and pull like a spring.

Standoffs.


Barocca

Great, thanks.

J.C.

Wrap lots of electrical tape or equivalent around the teeth on the crank - when you pull the plate the crank may fall and scar the bearing if not done.

CX PHREAK

Leave the bolts in place {but undone} and see if that gives enough clearance to do the job.

This will maintain alignment.

Then pull the plate back in with the tedium of 1/2 a turn at a time per bolt.

If the bolts aren't long enough I suggest finding several M8 x 1.25 mm bolts to suit.

 


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