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61
« Last post by wmmason on 26-Jan-21, 17:48 »
Will do! I also noticed the kit I bought to replace came with a spring and an oring, where as when I pulled this screw out there was nothing else, no spring or oring.
I'm guessing without the oring it would along gases to escape and pressure to drop? Causing inconsistent fueling (or something like that)
62
« Last post by CX PHREAK on 26-Jan-21, 17:37 »
Him bent through the thread area. Unusual.
Try the other one, that one isn't going in far enough and another may grab the available thread.
63
« Last post by wmmason on 26-Jan-21, 17:32 »
In carby
64
« Last post by wmmason on 26-Jan-21, 17:32 »
Screw in carby, and screw out.
65
« Last post by wmmason on 26-Jan-21, 17:30 »
Hey guys,
I haven't tested another screw in place.
I've attached a photo of the screw in question. Is it me or does the screw look a little warped/bent.
I will try and source another carb body, I understand what you're saying about the job welding, essentially moulding it in the thread. I fear it'll just occlude the carby, and also due to the amount of surface area on the thread, it won't release. I'll attach some more photos
66
« Last post by CX PHREAK on 26-Jan-21, 16:55 »
OK, it does sound like the thread is stripped. Does the screw from the other carb also spin in the damaged one? If not screw replacement will get you out of trouble.
If the carb body is stripped a helicoil won't fix it. The drill for the coil is around 8.5 mm. Drilled to this size I think the tower would be wafer thin.
Your best option would then be to replace the carb body though a JB weld repair may be worthwhile to attempt. This would need to be accomplished without getting the JB weld to the end of the drilling as aside from the hole to the venturi there is another drilling connecting across to the idle jet which would be impossible to clear out if you got JB weld back there.
But what you could try is to take the mixture screw and first make sure its tip will protrude by about 1 mm into the venturi when fully inserted. This is normal seated position.
If you can do this coat the threads of the screw with vaseline, cooking oil or something to prevent the JB weld from sticking to the screw. Coat the screw threads in JB weld and push into the tower.Leave overnight. If you are lucky you will be able to unscrew the screw - and also put it back.
No guarantee ....
67
« Last post by wmmason on 26-Jan-21, 16:46 »
Hi guys,
Thanks for your response.
As it is right now, the af screw is held in place with some plumbers tape. I can pull it out directly, I'll take a photo of before and after, so you can see the context, and the state of the needle. I've ordered an OEM needle.
The previous owner may have taken it apart and bodged it, as the bike has had a complete respray recently (prior to me owning the bike) , which was not done properly.
I haven't opened up the carbies yet, as I understand they're quite complicated. However that could also be possible.
68
« Last post by CX PHREAK on 26-Jan-21, 15:18 »
Maybe a little.
I've not seen a stripped mixture screw thread in a carb body though like anything else Murphies law rules.
What I do often see is corroded threads and I deal with this with an old mixture screw with its tip removed and clearance flutes cut into it so that it can be used basically as a clearance tap.
If this is not done the resistance of the screw cannot be 'felt' sometimes causing the screw tip to break off in the carb body - especially if using an aftermarket mix screw whose tip profile often doesn't match keihin OEM.
Not sure what thread these in fact have but I expect M6 x 1. I can verify this with pitch gauges if required.
But .... are you sure the mix screw tip has not broken off?
Also, are the jets in the correct towers as this can give a rev ceiling. The larger jet fits into the brass secondary emulsion tube, the smaller direct to the carb body.
69
« Last post by Seagrass on 26-Jan-21, 15:04 »
@CX PHREAK can you offer some wisdom with this? Seagrass
70
« Last post by wmmason on 26-Jan-21, 14:40 »
Hi guys,
I've finished installing the raesan 12v kit. The bike starts and runs much better than before. However the bike is still Sputtering at around 6k rpm, and if I back off the throttle the bike wants to rev a little higher. But still tops out at around 6.
I feel that the bike is running a lot better with the Rae San unit, however I think the core of the problem is with the threaded air fuel mixture screw.
Would you guys recommend replacing the carb body? Or repairing the stripped thread (would a helicoil even work?)
I'm also tossing up just replacing the carbs altogether and installing the Murray's kit. However that's quite $$$.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys.
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