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1
Well One-track, Manufacturing a set of these from a sheet of SS using the very basic hand tools I have at my disposal would entail an AWFUL lot of drilling,cutting, filing and elbow grease ! I doubt that the end result would be anywhere near as accurate.   From what I gather, the seller subs out the cutting of the discs as he does not have the facilities to do so himself. However, I'm sure if asked he could also organise the countersinking, edge-bevelling etc to be done BUT that would doubtless entail a substantial hike in the price.
      The photo shows the bevel on the outer circumference. Not really required on the front pair but just to match the rear.
2
Why don't these plates come ready for use, if you have to finish the machining, chamfer edges and finish the spoke holes you might just as well start with a flat plate of metal and cut them out yourself.
3
The face of the hub plates needs to be chamfered to match the trajectory of the spokes from the hub plate to the rim.

The spoke holes can be done with a counter sink tool as suggested elsewhere.

Seagrass
4
General Discussion / Re: CX500E / 650E spoked wheel conversion.
« Last post by muzza on Today at 05:22 »
what is required in the lathe to chamfer  the edges of the spoke hole ? I am a little confused here - why can you not use a drill and chamfer tool?
5
General Discussion / Re: CX500E / 650E spoked wheel conversion.
« Last post by jhovel on Today at 01:40 »
See if a magnet sticks to it enthusiastically.
  The higher the grade the less attraction.

Mark, what makes it "higher" - in your opinion? Less magnetic attraction means less iron in it. The tensile strength of stainless steel varies widely - above and below low carbon alloy steel. The strongest stainless steel is 440C - which happens to be magnetic.... but also brittle, but is commonly used in aircraft structures....
Stainless steel comes in 5 groups 3 out of these 5 are magnetic.... This is a very complex topic and magnetism is just a "side effect" of the molecular and crystalline structure of the metal. So don't use a magnet to determine strength....
There are no "higher" or "lower" grades of stainless. All of them have "high" usability grades for their specific purpose (corrosion resistance, hot strength, cold strength, ductility, weldability etc etc). Have a look at: https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=2874 for a basic description.
6
General Discussion / Re: CX500E / 650E spoked wheel conversion.
« Last post by CX PHREAK on Yesterday at 21:46 »
See if a magnet sticks to it enthusiastically.
  The higher the grade the less attraction.
7
General Discussion / Re: CX500E / 650E spoked wheel conversion.
« Last post by ericclapham on Yesterday at 20:08 »
Thanks, Joe for your kind offer. Hopefully, I'll be able to talk to my friend about the required lathe work this weekend and we'll see what he has to say and I'll take it from there,      As for the 'high quality SS,' that is just a presumption on my part !
8
General Discussion / Re: CX500E / 650E spoked wheel conversion.
« Last post by jhovel on Yesterday at 13:42 »
Hi. You are right. That needs to be done properly on a lathe....
I'd be happy to help but I'm in Bendigo Victoria. Use my offer as plan B if you can't find anyone in Adelaide....
I get worried whenever someone calls something "high grade" without specifying WHAT grade.... there is no such thing as "low grade" stainless steel, so what have they actually used? 304, 316... What?
Anyway, the outsides need a long shallow chamfer turned to the outside edge of the spoke hole countersinks so the spokes don't rub on there. A lathe is the only way to do that right.
Yell out if you get stuck.

Sent from my WP5 Pro using Tapatalk

9
Ask the gurus / Gear shift problem
« Last post by tomo on Yesterday at 02:08 »
Back in the late 90`s when Betsy, my 78 CX500 was my everyday transport, I took off the back cover to put in a new mechanical seal. After replacing the cover, found that when changing gear the pedal would not return properly. I got around this by bodging, connected two springs to the shift lever, one from the exhaust coupling and the other from the starter. This worked ok and I put a lot of miles in until she was retired around 2008. Anyway, finally have begun her re-build, currently on with the engine which I stripped down completely and am now putting back together with new rings, seals etc. From what I have seen on various forums, the culprit for the non-returning lever was probably the little spring which connects the shifter pawl to the shift arm. I managed to get a new one so fitted that. But having put the rear casing back on, seem to have the same problem !. Bit puzzled now. Another culprit I believe can be neglecting to fit the washer on the shift pawl rod, but that is definitely on. I have attached a photo of the mechanism as it is now, can anyone see anything that I am missing or have installed incorrectly ?. Any thoughts/advice much appreciated. I guess if needs be, I can knock up that tried and tested external spring set up, but would rather try to sort it out properly if I can.  [ You are not allowed to view this attachment ]  
10
       The conversion hub plates arrived yesterday. They appear to have been laser cut from high grade 4mm. SS plate. They do require ( quite a bit ) of additional work, though..........Countersinking and de-burring and also bevelling the outboard  facing,outer circumference of each plate to clear the angle of the spokes to the rim. The seller suggested I'd be able to do this with an angle grinder or a belt sander !!!  NoNo I don't think so and will be asking a favour of a lathe - owning friend to complete that operation. I have alloy rims coming from Italy.
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