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Ask the gurus / Re: Engine rebuild problems
« Last post by Seagrass on Today at 08:35 »
Keep adding a quality penetrating oil to the top of the piston every day or two and let it seep down past the rings.

This is a game of patience and if you want to free the piston you just need to let it take as long as it needs. I would expect it to take around a month or so until the penetrating fluid does its job.

Ask the gurus / Re: Engine rebuild problems
« Last post by tomo on Today at 07:28 »
Ignore my query about bearing sizes, just realised I asked that question in an earlier post a few years ago !. It was explained to me then, sorry about that, should have checked first. Would still appreciate advice on freeing up that piston and though.
General Discussion / Re: What's happening today? (2020)
« Last post by Onetrack on Today at 07:11 »
I've just found a new hero.

Mins, this reminds me of a trip to the Isle of Man, as we approached the wharf the bow doors were opening and the mad men enthusiasts were leeping off the bottom door before the ship was properly docked most of them landed OK.
"Young" Les F
Ask the gurus / Engine rebuild problems
« Last post by tomo on Today at 01:34 »
I started to strip down my CX500 engine after being in storage a few years, but found it to be seized. After removing the heads found the LH piston at TDC but the piston rings look to be badly rusted up so I`m guessing thats why she won`t turn over. Photo below hopefully !.
Dug out my spare engine and pleased to find it turned over with a spanner on it, but know nothing of this engines history. Took the heads off to check the bores, which don`t look too bad, picture below taken just after so not cleaned up at all. Not sure about the big end bearings condition, but CX PHREAK told me how to check this in another post by bringing the LH pot to TDC then taking the piston down a bit before pushing on it. Did that, unfortunately the piston dropped a bit with a clunk, so looks like the bearings are toast !. Now need to check the bearings on the first engine but not sure how to free it up. Wondered about trying to turn it over with the spanner and tapping the rusted in piston with a rubber mallet at the same time. Been soaking it with PlusGas penetrating oil, but not sure that has had much affect. I am hoping that the bearings are ok, the engine ran fine without any knocking before the bike was taken off the road. If so, hope to be able to maybe re-use the crank & conrods from that engine in the one with the decent block. If they are shot too though, not sure where to go from there. I get confused with all the bearing stuff I`ve read on forums, I know Silvers have Green ones, but guess those are the ones least likely to be used if they have them but other colours not available !. Any advice on any of this stuff much appreciated !.  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]    [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  
Ask the gurus / Re: Water pump impellar removal
« Last post by tomo on Yesterday at 19:53 »
Thanks for the clarification and all the advice, much appreciated.
Ask the gurus / Re: Mechanical seal 1980 CX500
« Last post by Seagrass on Yesterday at 19:13 »
While it is this far apart you should at least do the oil seal and water pump mechanical seal.

If the cam chain checks out OK then you can leave that until it needs replacing.

I have found the cam chains wear/stretch the most in the first 1,000 Km’s or so. Keep the chain correctly tensioned and you will get good service from it.

Ask the gurus / Re: Starter Clutch
« Last post by Seagrass on Yesterday at 19:09 »
Graham I looked at my current bottle of aviation sealer and it is actually branded as Loctite now. I get mine from my local auto parts store.

I think the trick with the tensioner is to “jiggle” the ball with a screwdriver while you are pushing back on the tensioner. It does not move back in one smooth movement but in small bits at a time.

Ask the gurus / Re: Starter Clutch
« Last post by gm on Yesterday at 19:02 »
thanks Seagrass
where do you get permatex ?

one more problem
I only seem to be able to move the auto chain tensioner back about 3mm just not enough to align the small hole to secure the push rod back and relieve the tension on the chain.  I've pushed the ball back as well and still no turther pushrod movement.
Is there a trick to this.   the utube videos make it look so easy but mine just will not move back that extra few mm to allow the alignment of the small hole in the push rod and the tensioner casing.
I will appreciate any suggestions.
Ask the gurus / Re: Mechanical seal 1980 CX500
« Last post by CX PHREAK on Yesterday at 18:35 »
Sorry, looking at your pic again that is the impeller half of the coolant seal sitting in its rubber cup - not the oil seal.

It's not well ....
Ask the gurus / Re: Mechanical seal 1980 CX500
« Last post by Dipstickler on Yesterday at 17:59 »
Cheers for that, if both the oil seal and the mechanical seal need changing, I should probably go down the triple bypass route while everything is pulled apart.
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